Stickgrappler's Sojourn of Septillion Steps

Wednesday, June 28, 2006

Who am I? (or WTF is a 'Stickgrappler'?)

6/28/2006 04:57:00 PM About Me, Crafty Dog, Dog Brothers, My Site No comments

No, this entry is not about Jackie Chan's movie WHO AM I? :-)

First off, why did i choose the nickname "Stickgrappler?" When I started to train regularly the martial arts circa 1996, I was looking for a nickname that would be somewhat indicative of my primary martial arts interest of 'How does one use a stick to defend oneself?' and the growing popularity of grappling. Lo and behold, the Dog Brothers had some good ideas about stickfighting and I read this in their FAQ:

"A good stickgrappler has good stick skills, good grappling, and good stickgrappling and can keep track of all three simultaneously. This is a good trick and can be a quite effective."

~ Marc "Crafty Dog" Denny

This quote resonated with me and I decided on using "Stickgrappler" as my nick. Since then, I've learned some stickfighting, some grappling and of course, some stick-chokes and some stick-locks. Funny thing, I pretty much was deeply into the FMA (Filipino Martial Arts) with their stickwork/knifework and haven't done much grappling. Only recently did I start to train some BJJ (Brazilian Jiujitsu) LOL.

I have many martial arts books and videos/dvd's and went to a few seminars. I have 2 training partners who are more experienced than I am. I'm but a beginner in the MA. Here and there I've done some training but never anything formal, and never really focusing on keeping the training consistent as I concentrated on school, work/career and building a family. Currently, I have 3 kids (8, 5, and 3). As Guro Marc 'Crafty Dog' Denny explains, a Warrior has 3 stages of life, the Young Man, the Family Man, and I don't think he had a good term for the stage of life after the Family Man and IIRC he just used 'Other Man'. I have past the Young Man stage and regret not doing more martial arts then. I'm definitely in the Family Man stage of life now. When our 3 yr-old is 5, I should be able to concentrate on training seriously again or at least semi-consistently.

At a former job, I had time during lunch with which I would surf the martial arts forums. There were some great information being posted and some of the threads/forums were not archived and they were lost. I decided to save some of what I found was informative and build a website to archive these fantastic posts/threads. I contacted the various authors/webmasters and pretty much was lucky that they all said it was ok for me to do that.

I started my site Stickgrappler's Martial Arts Archives with the idea of archiving great martial arts information firstly and secondly as a way to keep track of these notes...my site would be my notebook. At the time, there was a new martial arts forum Submission Fighting aka The Underground. A friend knew I was into checking out various martial arts and we would regularly email each other informative posts that we may have missed from that forum. Two such threads from the Underground: Jailhouse Rock/Interview with Dennis Newsome and Phil Dunlap's posts about Kachin Bando. At that time, I already had posts saved from BIG Sean Madigan's JKD forum, Dave 'Yoda' Green's FMA forum, Tim Mousel's Deluxe Martial Arts forums, Lamar Davis' JKD forum and some posts from the Usenet newsgroup, rec.martial-arts. My site also started as a simple way for me to learn simple html. As time went on, my site grew with Patrick Strong's JKD posts, Roy Harris' BJJ posts, Frank Benn's Boxing posts, Khun Kao's Muay Thai posts and so on and on.

I would surf the MA forums and see someone asking for info which I've archived to my site, I would post a link with the info requested and the rest is history.

Enough about my site, I hear you asking about 'me'. I grew up learning some Tai Chi Chuan and Wing Chun Kuen from my father. My sister's ex-boyfriend was into Chow Gar Southern Praying Mantis. He showed me some basics. A buddy was into WCK, another was into the Japanese arts. When I got to college, I met a friend who was working towards his Shotokan blackbelt. We trained a little, and through our talks, he went on to take some WCK, some JKD, some BJJ, and some Judo. My other training partner was into JKD and Muay Thai. Currently he is into BJJ.

My focus has always been on real-world self defense and the works of Tony Blauer, Geoff Thompson, Marc 'Animal' MacYoung, Peyton Quinn, Darren Laur, Luciano Silvera, etc have opened my eyes to something I was lacking in my training. I love learning some of the traditional as well as exotic arts. I've been to a few seminars as taught by Dr. Maung Gyi (Bando - Letha Yoga, Fist Stick, Bareknuckle, Staff), Saya Mfundishi Maasi (Bando Monk), Phil Dunlap (Kachin Bando), Marc Denny (Dog Brothers Martial Arts), Colonel Amnat Pooksrisuk (ancient Thai bareknuckle) and the legendary Dan Inosanto (JKD Concepts).

What do I want to do with this blog? This blog came about as I realized what I was doing with my website circa 1999 was somewhat like blogging. I started this blog in the summer of 2006 but at the time, there was no 'label' function within Blogger which made it hard for me as that is the key feature I wanted. There were workarounds to the label function but nothing that worked seamlessly and that turned me off.

I checked back recently and see the label function is a standard feature now which will facilitate things greatly. I want to put up some new info not found on my tripod site as I have maxed it out already. I started a 2nd tripod site only to have it taken down by Tripod for violation of TOS (not sure if it was because i used a similar site name/email or because I had the Jack Dempsey book online). I'm thinking with the blogging software it will be easier for me to link/archive/organize the info. I will repost some gems from time to time to this blog and doing my best to be consistent and posting at least on a daily basis something (be it new or a repost).

Some initial ideas for my blog include the following areas/subjects (in no order): Martial Arts; Glossary of terms and techniques; Quotes; Reviews; Weapons; Self-defense; Reality-based Self-defense; Strange-But-True stories; Local News; Humor; Zen; Bios/Profiles and the proverbial kitchen sink :-)

Through my site and the forums, I've been fortunate to meet and make friends with some accomplished martial artists. I dedicate this blog to them, to all martial artists with an open mind and last, but not least, to my father who was the first to teach me The Way.

Thank you for reading my blog. I hope you will find something useful or at least an entry served as a stimulus to explore something that is contrary to your way of thinking.

Edited 12/23/07

The Jabbing File thread started by Rastus

12/05/2002 04:30:00 PM Boxing, Jab, MartinBurke, My Site, Rastus, Standup, Techniques No comments

It's the fastest punch there is. Crosses, hooks, uppercuts all take more time to land. The distance traveled is the least, the speed is the greatest. ~ Rastus.
It upsets the rhythm of your opponent. When you bang his gloves, forearms, body, forehead, face, etc... it disrupts your opponent's rhythm and train of thought. Keeps him less "together" and grouped and planning your demise. ~ Rastus
It's a very versatile punch. You can throw snappy punches with it, using it as a range-finder or just as a general annoyance for your opponent. Or you can sit down on it a little bit, and hit with strength and accuracy. ~ Pound 4 Pound
You have to make your opponent respect your jab right away. After you stop him in his tracks a few times with your jab, he will be looking for it. It is from this point that you can begin working everything else off your jab. If you are feather-fisted with your jab, most guys won't think twice about wading through it in order to fire their own punches at you. Make him fear your jab and then everything else falls into place. ~ 5 o' Clock Shadow
It's the easiest punch to throw, and landing your jab says "dominating the fight" to most judges. ~ martinburke
It's good for blocking your opponent's vision, so you can give him something that he won't remember.:) ~ martinburke

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From: Rastus
Date: 07-Sep-02 07:49 PM

Alright, alright I'll post a second reason to get the party started:

2. It upsets the rhythm of your opponent. When you bang his gloves, forarms, body, forhead, face, etc... it disrupts your opponent's rhythm and train of thought. Keeps him less "together" and grouped and planning your demise.

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From: Ron Simpson
Date: 07-Sep-02 08:27 PM

Boxing 101 "Everything works off the jab"...

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From: PoundforPound
Date: 07-Sep-02 09:08 PM

It's a very versatile punch. You can throw snappy punches with it, using it as a range-finder or just as a general annoyance for your opponent. Or you can sit down on it a little bit, and hit with strength and accuracy.

According to a Black Belt magazine interview, Sugar Ray Leonard would sometimes even throw it as a backfist so that he could score from odd angles.

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From: Chad Hamzeh
Date: 07-Sep-02 09:22 PM
Edited:07-Sep-02 09:23 PM

Since its your fastest and has the least distance to travel, what are your guys thoughts of leading with your power hand? (i guess that was bruce lees reasoning, hehe)

I wouldn't do it, hate the way i feel on that side, but is it worth adapting? MMA purposes.

C

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From: Rastus
Date: 07-Sep-02 09:41 PM

Chad,
Converted southpaws can be like that. I guess it's a matter of personal preference and style. For boxing purposes, it would be tough to switch to lefty for a strong jab. Hmmm...I've never really thought about leading with my power hand. Converting to southpaw would be an interesting style! Maybe it would be effective...it certainly would be unconventional!

Note about jabbing:I argued one time with Machine May about rotating the shoulders on the jab. Rotating the shoulders is more of a Ted Kid Lewis "straight left" than a jab, but for me the clincher is this - do three jabs in a row without rotating your shoulders, then with rotating your shoulders. Big difference in speed, isn't it? (I'm serious, stand up and throw the punches both ways).

Focusing too much power on the jab defeats the purpose of the jab and interferes with the real power shots.

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From: 5 o clock shadow
Date: 07-Sep-02 09:47 PM

Rastus,
You've been my boxing coach while I have been here in Korea, you know that? I have been reading your posts at stickgrappler's and they help my boxing IMMENSELY. I am glad to see you back on here posting. I am still waiting for the thread on body shots that you promised a couple years ago...

Here is the most important thing I learned about the jab from reading your posts and getting out in the ring and seeing what works for me:

You have to make your opponent respect your jab right away. After you stop him in his tracks a few times with your jab, he will be looking for it. It is from this point that you can begin working everything else off your jab. If you are feather-fisted with your jab, most guys won't think twice about wading through it in order to fire their own punches at you. Make him fear your jab and then everything else falls into place.

I never used to do this before. Since I was an inside fighter, I would just try to slip inside right away and start banging. Now I establish my jab, disrupt my opponents timing, and slipping inside is much easier because my opponent has something else to look for and be wary of.

fos

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From: martinburke
Date: 07-Sep-02 09:54 PM
Edited:07-Sep-02 09:56 PM

Damn,that didn't take long.:)

It's the easiest punch to throw,and landing your jab says "dominating the fight" to most judges.

It's good for blocking your opponent's vision,so you can give him something that he won't remember.:)

Chad-I think most people are more balanced offensively with your power hand to the rear.

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From: Rastus
Date: 07-Sep-02 09:56 PM

5 o clock shadow,
Hey, what's up, buddy? Long time no chat. I'm glad to hear the posts have been helpful! and you just posted an excellent insight too. It's going into slot 4.

(I'm updating the list in the first post for convenience to the reader).

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From: JRS3
Date: 08-Sep-02 11:58 AM

TTT

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From: lefthooker
Date: 08-Sep-02 12:12 PM

I'll post tomorrow. I've got some verrrry good stuff on the jab.

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From: LEMon
Date: 08-Sep-02 11:37 PM

Start the begginer off by jabbing with his thumb up, this ensures that he doesnt put his elbow out. Next after a week or two have him twist it at the end and u have a picture perfect jab, now just do it 100 times a day :)

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From: Jody
Date: 09-Sep-02 02:33 AM
Member Since: 01-Jan-01

I love the jab because it allows me to take advantage of my reach and I love to hook off of it. A good jab makes a boxer look like an artist or a technician, which is aesthically pleasing to people like us, who know a little bit about it. A brawler can use a jab as well, allowing himself to take small break in between flurries. I could go on, but then I would start being redundant.

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From: lefthooker
Date: 09-Sep-02 03:59 AM

LEMon makes some good advice

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From: Stickgrappler
Date: 09-Sep-02 08:02 AM

*WOW* you guys wait for me to leave work on friday before posting good info!

special thanks to martinburke for *jabbing* Rastus to contribute :-) and of course to all the others who contributed.

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From: Stickgrappler
Date: 09-Sep-02 08:49 AM

many of the regulars know about my website and Frank Benn. but for the sake of the newbies, here is some advice from Frank Benn:

BOXING TIPS FOR FIGHTING by Frank Benn

The jab

To me, the art of boxing is founded on the jab. If you've got a jab, you can box. If you don't, then boxing is hard. Simple as that. Without the jab, expect to get hit a lot. The jab helps to make you a good boxer. Without one, you're just a puncher (which can also be effective, but requires specialized attributes to pull it off).

The Can Opener, and the Spoon

There's a saying in boxing that your jab is a can opener, and your cross is a spoon. The opponent is a can of meat. You've got to use your can opener to open the can BEFORE you can use your spoon to dig out the meat. If you try to use your spoon first, you'll generally fail. Even if you like to lead off with a cross (not usually advisable, unless you're Roy Jones, Ali, or a pissed off Jack Johnson), it is advisable that you at least feint a jab to conceal the load-up of your rear shoulder for the cross.

Jab like a fencer

Jabbing is a game of controlled lunging in coordinated footwork to achieve the right range for other things. Some people use the jab in a light way, like a fly swatter. I like to use it light, but also as a heavier punch as well -- a dichotomy which comes from originally learning to box at 175 lbs., but finding myself now at a trim 215-220 lbs. with enough speed AND weight to use it both ways.

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From: Stickgrappler
Date: 09-Sep-02 08:50 AM

Boxing Tips for Fighting -- Part 2 -- With Some Street Applications, and Some Advice by Frank Benn

The Jab Revisited

Remember, the jab is your can opener. It precedes most other utensils. Look at it also as your sword. The jab must be fast, and reliable. When you've got nothing else left, you'd better at least have a jab. Insert it into every gap. Use it to probe the opponent's reactions. Imagine that you're blind -- your jab is how you feel for every contour.

Use of the jab ranges from pawing with it to load up your cross (Ali) to using it to conceal your low entry (Chris Byrd, even Royce Gracie) to a damaging tool that will make your man see stars (Larry Holmes). Hurting a man with your jab has to do with how much you bring your lead hip in line with the shot, and how much you shift your weight into it.

Most people don't put anything on their jab, and a decent boxer will not respect it -- as you throw it, he'll come right over the top of it with his cross and knock you out, or slip inside of it and catch you with his hook.

Feinting with the Jab

Before you can even use your jab as a feint, you have to make it believable. Otherwise (as already stated) your opponent will wait for that soldier to leave his post and storm that wall (previous metaphor from other post). Once you've made your jab into something credible and fearful in your opponent's eyes, you can work some other variables with it.

Bread Basket Jab

This is a great way to get the opponent to lower his lead hand and expose his chin. Or, if he won't lower that hand, you just crack away at that floating rib. I've put heavyweights on the floor with breadbasket jabs -- not hard to do if you've got a jab with some starch in it, and you time it when he's coming toward you. You've got to do it as you slip outside or sidestep -- i.e. your head moves on the same first beat that your punch did.

For more of Frank Benn’s insights, check out:

Frank Benn - Some tips and concepts related to the Jab

in which he writes a whole article on the jab.

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From: joemurphy
Date: 09-Sep-02 09:18 AM

Rastus - what do you mean by "rotating your shoulders"? Is that the same as rolling your lead shoulder to hide your chin? hmmm....can't say I'm for or against it until I understand it.

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From: Stickgrappler
Date: 09-Sep-02 09:19 AM

of course, Rastus wrote "Top 10 Reasons to Jab"

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From: LEMon
Date: 13-Sep-02 07:31 PM

ttt

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From: Rastus
Date: 22-Sep-02 01:47 PM

hey guys,
Did anyone notice on the De La Hoya/Vargas fight, how the Oscars win WAS A CONSEQUENCE OF HIS ESTABLISHING HIS JAB?

He didn't outmuscle Vargas, didn't out bomb him...he outjabbed him. Once this jab was established, it ushered in the bombs.

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NOTE: posted to the Underground's Boxing forum. Posted Dec 2008 and backdated to Dec 5, 2002 to mirror my old archives http://stickgrappler2.tripod.com/ug/rastjab2.html

De La Hoya vs Vargas: The Jab thread started by Rastus

12/05/2002 11:00:00 AM Boxing, Jab, My Site, Rastus No comments

NOTE: posted to the Underground's Boxing forum. Posted Dec 8, 2008 and backdated to Dec 5, 2002 to mirror my old archives http://stickgrappler2.tripod.com/ug/rastjab3.html.

Terminology and Stance thread started by lefthooker

12/05/2002 11:00:00 AM Boxing, Lefthooker, MartinBurke, My Site, Quotes, Stance, Standup No comments

Place your left foot directly in front of your left shoulder.
Place your right foot under your right shoulder, step back with your right foot about 18 inches and turn your right foot to approximately a 45 degree angle. There should be a slight angle with the back shoulder directly over the right foot.
You should be in a comfortable stance, bend both knees slightly and sit slightly, dropping down an inch or two. Raise your right heal so that you are resting on your entire left foot and the front half of your right foot. You should feel a bit "springy" and loose, not at all tight.
Tuck your chin into the center of your chest so that you can see forward with the tops your eyes. All you need is a very narrow focus. You should focus your gaze on your opponents shoulders, you want to see any hint of movement.
With your elbows close to your body, turn your hands and palms forward with the fingers open, do not make a fist. Keeping your hands in a tight fist will only tire your hands and arms and make them react slowly.
The left hand should be over the left foot.
The right hand should be just in front of right ear. There should be about a 6 inch open area between your hands.

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From: lefthooker
Date: 18-Nov-02 10:42 AM

Because of the different physical and individual characteristics of each person the stance can be modified to fit the boxer. The spread between the legs can be adjusted but you should have good balance, the rear leg should too far or close together. A good way to check your stance is to see if you can sit down and make a "U" by moving up and down from one leg to the other and back again. If you can your stance should be corre

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From: Stickgrappler
Date: 18-Nov-02 11:15 AM

this is from your booklet or your coach's booklet, right? i vaguely recall you mentioning this.

cool!

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From: lefthooker
Date: 18-Nov-02 11:16 AM

Yes this is from the boxing manual that we created. Once we meet up we're going to make a video as well.

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From: martinburke
Date: 18-Nov-02 04:05 PM

MORE,DAMMIT!!!!:)

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From: Nikto
Date: 19-Nov-02 05:13 AM

Lefthooker, are you a trainer?

Any info on the left hook? :)

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From: lefthooker
Date: 19-Nov-02 06:09 AM

No I am just an aspiring boxer. I'll post something on the left hook later.
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From: wanderer
Date: 19-Nov-02 10:24 AM

Awesome post. Threads like these are so much more interesting than "Roy Jones sucks ass" or "So-and so is the best". This kind of thread is why I keep coming back to this forum.

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From: JoeyCrawford
Date: 19-Nov-02 11:14 PM

Well, I was going to make a whole new thread but you sound like a good guy to ask about this: I'm about 6'3" or 6'4" and anywhere from 175-185, so I'm taller but less powerful than most guys I fight. So should I still only squat slightly to take advantage of my height or should I "sit down" in my stance more to even out the power part? Here's a quote to take into consideration:

"An advantage is only an advantage if you take advantage of it."
- Dikembe Mutombo

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From: TOMMYDAPIT
Date: 20-Nov-02 12:06 AM

thats a good question crawford, me id use my size and reach, did you see the morales/barrera 2, if you did you see how morales is trying to stand tall and use his reach, i dont like the stand straight up style,id stand tall and use my size and reach like lennox does also

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From: lefthooker
Date: 20-Nov-02 07:36 AM

I'd stand tall, but still have a little bend in your knees of course.

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From: wanderer
Date: 20-Nov-02 09:14 AM

What if it's the opposite? Me, I'm about 5'8" and around 156-158 lbs. I'm actually shorter than most guys in that weight class. Many guys are going to have height and reach on me. Should I do the opposite thing that Joey should do, and get even lower into a crouch?

I remember someone saying"If you have a tall guy, make him fight tall, and if you have a short guy, make him shorter." Something like that.

Thanks.

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From: lefthooker
Date: 20-Nov-02 11:43 AM

you don't have to be in a crouch, no need to make yourself smaller than yoiu alrerady are, just fine the right level of stance for yourself and work from there.

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From: martinburke
Date: 20-Nov-02 01:27 PM

I'm with them,Joey.Fight tall.Make the other guy reach for you-that'll make your punches that much more effective.

"Sitting down" all the time ends up being more like "setting your feet";you'll end up trading more.

Why give up your strength to play into theirs?

The only time you may need to make yourself smaller is if you find yourself moving straight back.Close yourself up for that split second(at least you hope)before you come to your senses and circle out of there..
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From: jcruz
Date: 20-Nov-02 02:05 PM

good stuff, indeed, lefthooker. sounds alot like my instructor and what i get in class. reading this post and the reactions certainly re-enforces the fact that i'm getting excellent training.

thanks again.

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From: tacticalfighter
Date: 21-Nov-02 12:42 PM
Edited:21-Nov-02 01:07 PM

Crawford,

I am 6'2 and 195-200 (up from 185-190 last year), I too share the same concern, some of my sparring partners are stronger 215, or 230 lbs. Luckily, since I am leaner, and happen to be faster and lighter on my feet. Develope your punching speed by relaxing, working lots of reps on the bags, shadowboxing combinations fast and light. Get back to basics, work one round just jabbing, one crossing, etc. Speed and endurance work well for me. And don't get me wrong the guys say I am a hard hitter( anyone using good mechanics and weighing over 150lbs can hit hard-if you weigh 185 to 200 thats harder yet) But developing the good attributes you have now will be easier than developing new attributes. Same goes with skill acquisition-polishing what you have is faster than learning new skills. (Though you should also work on your weaknesses too, but you may find encouragement from some nice quick improvements!)

And work on your foot work by jump roping. I don't know how much you rope, but I try to do 3-5 rounds each training day as my warm up. I skip stationary for 1 round, then I skip forward and backwards, and hop side to side with both feet for a couple rounds. Single leg skipping adds variety too, but wears you out quicker. Also spend a few rounds just working foot work. Step and slide, slide and step, shuffle, pivot circling one way then the other. On Sunday, one of my conditioning days, I will work 3-5 rounds of foot work with a rubber strength bands looped to the wall with a heavy duty eye bolt and to my weight belt by the handles. I then work foot work drills a round with resistance facing forward away from the wall, the next round facing the wall. Damn good workout!

Ray

www.absolutejkd.com

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NOTE: posted to the Underground's Boxing forum..

Originally posted to this site on Dec 22, 2008 - edited today Nov 27, 2013 to mirror my old site's posting of Dec 5, 2002. Copied from http://stickgrappler2.tripod.com/ug/lhstance.html.

The Definitive Jab thread started by lefthooker

12/05/2002 11:00:00 AM Boxing, Jab, Lefthooker, Muhammad Ali, My Site, Unofficial Underground Archives No comments

NOTE: I had this thread archived to my 2nd Tripod site ages ago. Tripod took down my second archives. In time, I will be adding to this blog some of the info that was up there. My thanks to someholdsbarred and waise pairasta for their help.

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From: lefthooker
Date: 18-Nov-02 10:37 AM

Introduction to the Jab

The JAB is the most used punch in boxing, this is because the Left JAB (for right handed) people is the punch that is closest to your opponent. Normally thrown with the elbow straight, the punch is the quickest and safest punch that can be thrown. It will set up any other punches that will be thrown in combinations. It can be used either in offense or defense. By adjusting your footwork as you throw the JAB you can to move to different directions in the ring. The punch can be thrown at different speeds, from different angles and you can adjust the about of power behind the punch. The JAB can be a light flicking punch that probes for openings or can be a hard jolt that can almost be a knockout punch on it's own. Some noted boxers that have relied on the use the JAB are Oscar De La Hoya who employed a hard stiff JAB, Floyd Mayweather Jr. who uses a FLICKING JAB to set up his power punch and Larry Holmes who used an UP JAB to raise the chin of his opponent for his power punch. Each JAB was thrown differently but the all had the same result, to set up other punches and help build successful careers.

OFFENSIVE JABS- Offensive Jabs begin when the front foot moves first into a different position, usually a change of angle will result. On the completion of the JAB an attack will commence.

DEFENSIVE JABS- Defensive Jabs begin when the back foot moves first into a different position, usually a change of angle will result. On completion of the JAB you can attack or you can gain further distance.

The Jab – Part 1: The Offensive Jabs

The following will describe the 5 offensive jabs. For a right handed person they will be jabs thrown with the left hand.

The BASIC JAB When the BASIC JAB (I refer to it as the JAB when training) is thrown your relative position does not change. The mechanics of the punch are thus. While standing in your normal stance,

1. Step forward with your left foot about 1 foot pushing off of your right instep.

2. Thrust your left hand straight out at the same time.

3. Turn your right palm to your left to cover your face.

With practice these 3 movements will be done at the exact same time. When the punch is completed, the left hand, left foot and right palm will go back into the position of the original stance. In effect you are throwing a left jab and right block. The right hand will catch any straight punch coming back at you. If you keep the correct distance from your opponent he will be unable to counter you with any other punch other then a jab or possibly a straight right hand. It is possible to place your right hand by your right ear when you jab if your opponent insists on trying to counter you with a left hook. You can even place your right palm by your left ear to counter right hand counters. I suggest you place it in front of your face as it is the most likely target when trying to counter you jab.

The FORWARD JAB: The FORWARD JAB will allow you to gain distance on your opponent. This will allow you to get closer to him while still punching. This will set up quick combinations of hooks and uppercuts. This is especially important when boxing someone who is taller and has a longer reach then you. The only difference between the mechanics of the BASIC JAB and the FORWARD JAB is that upon throwing the punch and stepping with the left foot you do not retract the left foot but bring the right foot forward so that you are in your original stance. This movement will bring you forward, ready for a quick attack upon your opponent.

The BACKWARD JAB: The BACKWARD JAB will allow you to increase the distance between you and your opponent. This will allow you to be at a distance where you cannot be countered directly. This will make your opponent come forward to you if he desires to attack. From then on you can set up pivots and counters to stop his attack. The only difference between the BASIC JAB and the BACKWARD JAB is that upon throwing the punch you dip down slightly and then step back with your right foot about 8 inches. You then bring your left foot back into your original stance. This movement can be very effective as you can punch and see what type of defense your opponent uses against your jab. It is possible to move your right foot to your inside (right) or to your outside (left) this will change your angle. It is good to vary this move, it will make it difficult for your opponent to know which direction you intend to go.

The OUTSIDE JAB: The OUTSIDE JAB will allow you to step diagonally to your left as you jab. This will bring you to an angle so that an attack can be made while your opponent should be on his heels and off balance. The only difference between the BASIC JAB and the OUTSIDE JAB is that instead of stepping directly forward with your left foot, you step forward and to your outside (left) you then pivot on the ball of your left foot and bring your right foot into your original stance. The distance you step and the speed of the pivot will allow you to make the move wider or narrower depending on where you want to end up.

The INSIDE JAB The INSIDE JAB will allow you to step diagonally to your right as you jab. This will bring you to a angle so that an attack can be made to the back of your opponent (if his is right handed). This angle cannot be countered and is very effective. The only difference between the BASIC JAB and the INSIDE JAB is that after you have thrown the punch (while stepping forward) step to your inside (right) with your right foot then pivot slightly to your inside on the ball of your left foot. This will change your angle so that a straight right hand should land cleanly.

HAND POSITIONING The left hand normally is held high, the thumb held about the height of the nose. You can also throw any of the OFFENSIVE JABS from a low position with the hand held just above the waist. This will make the jab come from a different angle and make it harder to block. Any of the above jabs can be thrown in this manner. It is a bit more dangerous and it is imperative that you bring the jab hand back to a HIGH position after you jab so that you can defend against a jab or right hand counter. There are times you can bring the left hand back to the low position it you desire to counter your opponents counter. I will explain this later in the tactics section of this manual.

FLICK JAB The FLICK JAB is a jab that is thrown with the left hand held high (the elbow is at a level of the shoulder with the glove held near your chest), the left hand is thrust out so that the knuckles just touch your opponents face. The hand flicks out and in quickly in a flicking motion. This punch is not powerful but will confuse your opponent as it makes it very hard for him to set himself up to punch back. The flicking jab is used to set up a right hand. This is especially true for boxers that like to use a lot of movement.

The disadvantage of the FLICK JAB is that there is little power to it and it is almost impossible to throw the left hook or the left uppercut after the FLICK JAB is thrown. And because of the angle of the elbow the left hand can not be used for parries. However, it is a good punch to have in your arsenal, used once in a while it will give your opponent something else to think about during a fight.

The Jab – Part 2: The Defensive Jab

The DEFENSIVE JAB is used to keep an on rushing opponent at a distance and allow you to quickly change angles for a counter attack.

The mechanics of the DEFENSIVE JAB are:

1. Throw out the left hand as in the offensive jab.

2. Turn your right thumb so that the right glove is in front of your face.

3. Step back with the right foot about 1 foot while leaving the left foot in place.

4. Bring back the left foot so that you are in your original stance. These 3 steps are done very quickly and almost instantly. With practice it will all flow seemlessly into one move and you will be able to place yourself at a distance from your opponent.

Inside and Outside Defensive Jabs: It is possible to change angles when using the DEFENSIVE JAB. Instead of stepping directly back with the right foot you can step to either the INSIDE or OUTSIDE to change your angle to either direction. This will allow you to set up a right hand and be in excellent defensive position. Practice the DEFENSIVE JAB moving to different angles and setting up the counter. This is a very important tactic and should be a part of every boxers inventory of punches.

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From: Stickgrappler
Date: 18-Nov-02 11:15 AM

cool!!

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From: Bull_in_chinashop
Date: 18-Nov-02 11:42 AM

Excellent! ttt

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From: 5 o clock shadow
Date: 20-Nov-02 11:30 PM

Lefthooker,

Can the flick jab be kinda like a backhand (backfist)? I saw James Toney use this one a lot from his lead-hand-down, look-over-the-shoulder stance. It almost looked like a backhand.

Also, this is a GREAT thread. The jab is the most important punch in boxing. I also seem to pick up little details from these threads on the basics.

Thanks!

fos

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From: koralwarrior
Date: 21-Nov-02 12:11 AM

lesson in jabs = Marco Antonio Barrera

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From: wanderer
Date: 21-Nov-02 08:39 AM

ttt

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From: 5 o clock shadow
Date: 21-Nov-02 09:03 AM

LEmon,

Care to add your two cents about the "jabber-cut?"

fos

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From: tacticalfighter
Date: 21-Nov-02 11:58 AM

Good posts!

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From: martinburke
Date: 21-Nov-02 02:48 PM

fos-That flick jab is just a quarter-turn of the wrist away from being a backhand.And even a flick jab can be "illegal" if you don't close your fist.

That being said,in a pro fight,it'll depend on the ref,and your reputation,as to whether it gets enforced or not.

I remember talking to an old photographer back toward the end of Ali's career.He mentioned that Sports Illustrated and other mags wouldn't buy many of his Ali pics because they would capture him turning his thumb forward during his open-gloved flick jab.

It wasn't a side of Ali that SI readers wanted to see,I guess.

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From: wanderer
Date: 21-Nov-02 04:42 PM
Edited:21-Nov-02 05:06 PM

martinburke is that true?? Holy shit that blows my mind. Not that I thought Ali would never be dirty, but...he is such an icon that I just wouldn't associate him with doing that.

I guess it's kind of like Marciano hitting Walcott with his forearm..the great ones were great, but they all took a shortcut now and again...:)

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From: LEMon
Date: 22-Nov-02 02:15 AM

The jabbercut is basically a jab with your palm turned up. It travels from your face, in a downward then upward arc about 4 inches, designed to lift the chin. U must be very careful of his right hand doing this, its nice if u combine it with a left hook or and overhand right after. I have caught alot of guys with it but u gotta be prepared for what happens after, either have a combo ready to flow into or dont do it because u will get nailed if u dont move quick or hit with a combo. Judah used it well against Kostya, he slipped left and right and as he slipped left again he had it loaded and leaped into it. Naseem uses the same thing as well. As i said u can get nailed if u do it to much and they expect it.

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From: 5 o clock shadow
Date: 22-Nov-02 03:14 AM

LEMon,

I tend to use the jabber-cut when I tilt backwards from a blow. Without resetting, I'll fire the lead hand out and up-wards. Bruce Lee has a picture of this in the Dao of Jeet Kune Do labeled as "the elusive lead." I also like to use the jabber-cut from a slip to the left. As I am coming up, I fire the jab outwards. Due to the angle of my stance, it is most comfortable for me to hold my fist facing up.

martinburke,

I heard that Ali had a certain technique, a flick that he would use on the end of his flicking jabs to cut people. Some people said he picked it up from a Karate guy. I remember Mills Lane talking about it once on a documentary. He said that Ali would cut people up like he had a razor.

fos

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From: martinburke
Date: 22-Nov-02 02:28 PM
Edited:22-Nov-02 04:00 PM

wanderer-I don't know if it was 100% true;he may have been stretching the truth a bit as far as the frequency.But I've seen a few photos of him doing that very thing.

As far as being a dirty fighter,well,it's human nature.It's not like we're throwing kisses to begin with.A punch to the head with murderous intent differs from a thumb to the eye only in degree.

fos:I think most people would find a palm-up jab more comfortable in that instance(after slipping to the left-especially from the peekaboo).don't know why it's not taught more.

About that Ali technique-you can't do it so much with the gloves today,but back then you could flick the tip of an open glove and it would pop like a whip,especially after it had gotten wet.

He wasn't the only one to do it.There was guy called Orlando Zulueta(sp?)who couldn't break an egg,but he'd slice people open like that,too.

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From: Sobolewski
Date: 22-Nov-02 03:14 PM

lefthooker: Are you writing a book? If so, I'll be one of the first ones in line to buy a copy! Great stuff!

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From: lefthooker
Date: 22-Nov-02 06:18 PM

Me and a friend of mine who trains fighters at Gleasons wrote a boxing manual. We have the first copy completed.

This is just an excerpt from our manual.

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From: Sobolewski
Date: 23-Nov-02 03:21 AM

Let us all know when it's available! Seriously!

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From: Bramacharya
Date: 24-Nov-02 11:49 AM

ttt

This is the kind of information I’ve been looking for, would definitely be interested in obtaining a copy of your manual.

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NOTE: posted to the Underground's Boxing forum.

Originally posted to this site on Dec 22, 2008 - edited today Nov 27, 2013 to mirror my old site's posting of Dec 5, 2002. Copied from http://stickgrappler2.tripod.com/ug/lhjab.html.

Archone's Updated Weapons Drills

5/23/2002 11:00:00 AM Archone, Articles, Drills, Training, Weapons No comments

In my previous installment, I described a series of drills, designed to attain basic mastery of most weapons. Shortly after finishing it, I realized that I had excluded many differant weapons and styles. Whether with one or two hands, the weapons used with the previous drills are all SINGLE SURFACE WEAPONS. That means that they have a single striking surface. Furthermore, I failed to take into account the limitations of a student who does not have a job that involves hours spent on an empty lot, with weapon in hand, free to train as he or she pleases. Lastly, I made new discoveries in my studies of weaponry, and have to account for these new areas as well. These new drills will cover everything but flailing weapons such as a chain or nunchuku.

First, let's touch on HOW to strike.

I'm going to go off on a tangent here(and possibly take a lot of flak from groaning "hardcore" types), but please bear with me. Capcom, a noted manufacturer of video games, achieved international acclaim with the release of their instant classic, "Street Fighter II." Arcades had lines going out the door, for people wanting to play SFII. Today, I find it almost impossible to find anyone in the 20-30 age bracket who admits to having played SFII, or even responds to the name. Must be a case of mass amnesia, or something.

ANYHOW... SFII's characters were notable for two areas. Let's disregard the area of "special attacks" that involve massive fireballs and jumping uppercuts. The OTHER area, was that each fighter had three punch and three kick attacks. A "jab" or light attack, a "strong" or medium attack attack, and a "fierce" or powerful attack. Naturally, most early players adopted a strategy of only using fierce attacks. Okay, that's enough discussion of video games.

Now back to weapons training. Weapons training ALSO has three attack types possible. As this is MY system of training, I named them myself, quite imaginitively if I do say so. I call them, "Type 1," "Type 2," and "Type 3" attacks types. I call them this, because of the number of arm joints involved.

A TYPE 1 ATTACK involves only one arm joint in the execution. Specifically, the wrist. The hand is either held out, or shoots out in a flickering movement, while the power comes entirely from the wrist motion, in a type 3 lever action(Resistance at the tip, Force in the middle, Fulcrum at the end). If you are holding the weapon in a two handed grip, it becomes a type 3 lever in conjuction with a type 1, the most powerful lever possible(Resistance at one end, Fulcrum in the middle, Force at the other end). This is the fastest possible attack type.

A TYPE 2 ATTACK involves TWO arm joints. The elbow joint straightens out, bringing the awesome power of the tricep(well, it's awesome if you've done a lot of pushups, anyway...). At the same time, the wrist bends as with a Type 1 attack, combining the power of both joint in TWO type 3 levers(or if you use two hands, three type threes with a type 1). A much more powerful strike, but slower and harder to recover from.

A TYPE 3 ATTACK involves THREE arm joints. As the first two joints extend and flex, the shoulder brings those chest and back muscles into play. FURTHERMORE, the body drives off the hips, either from a stationary stance or stepping forward or back, getting the power of the legs and abdominals into the strike as well. Three type 3 levers(or five plus a type 1) in the arm alone, plus the considerably more complicated(to describe, anyway) power generation of the body. This is THE most POWERFUL attack type possible. Also slow as hell, but...

For the record, a thrust is a type 3 attack, as it involes the use of all three joints, plus the body. And it should be practiced with ANY weapon, regardless of configuration. A club tip jabbed into the stomach works very well(as long as it's not a collapsable baton), as will a hammer or hatchet head shoved into the face. It's especially effective with such weapons, because it's unexpected.

The weapon you use determines the attack types you'll use. A type 1 is most useful with a knife or saber, a light slashing weapon. The rattan escrima sticks can also be used effectively with a type 1 attack. Surprisingly, a hand axe, hatchet, or tomahawk can also be used with a type 1, as the head heavy balance gives it the ability to gash and hack a target with this motion. A type 2 attack is useful with almost any weapon you can carry, from club, to sword, to knife, to axe. A type 3 attack is useful with any heavy hacking or bludgeoning weapon, such as a hickory club-but not a light rattan stick- or axe handle, hatchet, hammer, heavy sword.

Next, we'll touch on the angles again. If you're reading this, you're almost undoubtedly familiar with the concept of angles. Here's my designation of nine angles:


2 1 3

\ | /

4-9-5

/ | \

6 8 7

That's it. Other people use their own system of numbering. This is mine. If you really want to, superimpose your labeling over mine. "Take the best, and leave the rest."

Now comes the drills. Modified, and updated. Do you have an hour and a half a day to spare? That's all this will require.

First, choose your weapon, and the attack type you'll train in. You can choose another attack type to study later, you can choose another weapon to train in later. Please only choose a single surface weapon, though, for your initial weapon. LATER, you can study DOUBLE SURFACE WEAPONS. Start with simpler stuff. This will take you about 2 months.

Month 1: Basic techniques.

In the first week, practice 100, that's one hundred, ten tens, of each of the nine attacks, with the chosen attack type, every day, each hand(for single surfaced weapons that require both hands, i.e. a baseball bat, a katana, etc. switch between left and right handed grips). That's eighteen hundred techniques per day. You can do it first thing in the morning, you can do it in the evening after work. Doesn't matter. 1800 strikes/24 hours. That's all that matters. Also important is that you focus on the technique. Don't just throw it as fast and hard as you can. For this first week, emphasize the technical aspect. If you make a mistake throwing a technique, strike it from the tally and do it again("...80, 81, 82...oops, that one was off...82, 83, 84...). This should take you no more than an hour, assuming an average of one strike every 2 seconds.

In the second week, you'll begin double strike combos. First, deliver ALL the two strike combos that start with a angle 1 strike, i.e. double 1s, 1 2, 1 3, 1 4, etc. Five repetitions of each combo. Then five reps of each combo with the other hand. Then back to the first hand, for all the strikes that begin with a angle 2 strike, etc. This assumes 1620 strikes/day, and an estimated practice time of 28 minutes. Half an hour a day.

For the last two weeks, you'll work on triple strike combos. Let me showcase the "matrix" for the combos.

1111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111
1111111111222222222333333333444444444555555555666666666777777777888888888999999999
1234567789123456789123456789123456789123456789123456789123456789123456789123456789

That's all 81 three strike combos that can start with an angle 1 attack. So you'd do an angle 1 twice, followed by each of the nine angles, for the first nine attacks, then imediately move one to 1,2,X, then 1,3,X, etc. Perform all of them in sequence, only 1 rep of each. Then do the other hand. Then the combos that start with angle 2 strikes, etc. That's 4374 strikes per day, but by now, you'll be delivering them with far greater speed, in rapid combos. Figure at least 1 strike per second, for an estimated time of about an hour and a half each day. Do this every day, for the next two weeks.

Now, you've trained your body to deliver technically proper strikes in rapid combos, even under stressful conditions. I recommend that you keep up your training in the triple strike combo drills, just to stay in practice, further hone your abilities, and maintain your callausses.

Month 2: Accuracy and speed

I used to use empty soda cans for this. Sheets of scrap paper crumpled into a ball works even better, and is easier on your weapon, as well. For a week, practice tossing the target into the air, then striking it out of the air. Do thrusts as well. These will be the toughest. But if you can get the "point recognition" necessary to spear a paper ball with the tip of your sword or stick, then you'll have AWESOME control over your weapon, which will show itself when you spar. And when you fight for real.

Second week, practice tossing two targets into the air, then striking them both out of the sky.

Third and fourth weeks, focus on hitting three targets at once. These will be the toughest, since this is supposed to be a treatise on solo drills, and it's difficult to toss three paper balls into the air in such a way that you can then strike them with three seperate attacks.

Okay, that's it for basic offensive training with a single surface weapon. Now let's move on to double surfaced weapons.

A DOUBLE SURFACE WEAPON, means a weapon with more than one striking area. This means any weapon that is used in pairs, such as a pair of knives, a brace of rapiers, double baston escrima. This also means two weapons used together, like combining a knife with a sword, or grabbing up a screwdriver as an improvised reverse grip knife in conjuction with a 1 1/2" crescent wrench as a club. This ALSO includes the quarterstaff, as a staff, in functional use, is a pair of sticks, joined together at the handles, to increase the power of the strikes thereby.

To learn to use a double surfaced weapon, first learn to use the single surface weapon. That means take the single baton, the single katana, the one knife, and train with it under the methods outlined above.

A double surface weapon allows for a far greater variety of attacks, and far faster combos, since you can strike with the second weapon while recovering with the first. Unfortunately, double surface weapons also require far more control. Having practiced using the weapon with one hand, you definately know how to deliver single strikes(I'll discuss the quarterstaff in greater detail later), precisely and accurately. So we'll go straight to combos.

In the first two weeks, you'll work on two strike combos. But with two weapons, combos become far more varied. With just the angle 1 attack, you have four possible combos: Left Left, Right Right, Left Right, and Right Left. Mathematically, it works out to 18 squared, or 324 possible 2 strike combos. Five of each. 3240 strikes a day. Assuming at least one strike per second, that's a workout time of just under an hour. It WILL be difficult at first, learning to coordinate the strikes. That's what this is for.

In the next month and a half, you'll practice triple strike combos. Now, it's 18 cubed, or 5832 possible combos. Just with angle 1 strikes, you're looking at EIGHT possible combos:

Left Left Left
Right Right Right
Left Left Right
Right Right Left
Left Right Right
Right Left Left
Left Right Left
Right Left Right

You're not even going to try to do ONE rep of each combo. Not unless you have five hours a day to spare. Instead, you'll divide the training into thirds. The first day, you'll do all the combos that begin with the first three angles. The second day, you'll work on the second three angles. Finally, on the last day, you'll start with angle sevens and end with thrusting nines.

I find that the easiest way of keeping track of the combos, is to do the first set of 81 combos(all the ones that start with an angle one) entirely with the left hand. Then, without pausing, move on to all the angle 1 combos that focus entirely on the right hand. Then the Left Left Rights, Right Right Lefts, and so one, just as I stated above. After 1 and a half months of daily practice, you'll have done 14 of each combo. I suggest you keep this up. Even if you were working on single surface practice before, practicing two single surface weapons at once will not only maximize your efficient use of time, but also increase your control over both weapons thereby. Furthermore, you've been swinging a weapon every day, for(assuming you went straight from completing your training with a single surface weapon to using two weapons in tandem or suchlike) for four months. Look in the mirror. Are you a little leaner? A little more muscular(Oh, did you decide to use an axe or heavy sword? A LOT more muscular, then)? The hell with Tae Bo...

Now, a little aside as to how to properly use a quarterstaff. I said the staff is used as two sticks joined together. I meant it. Forget what you've been taught about slamming the stick into your armpits with every strike. The idea is to hit the OTHER guy with the ends of the staff, not yourself.

First, take the quarterstaff in the traditional grip, divided into thirds. Now, let go with one hand, and hold it as though it were a single stick. Now, deliver type 1 attacks, practicing with each hand. Good. Now, grab the staff in the traditional grip once again. Now, again deliver type one attacks with each hand, while AT THE SAME TIME, you guide the other end of the stick, with a hooking, uppercut, or overhand motion. Thus, the right hand strikes with the left tip, and the left hand adds power to the blow, while when the left hand strikes with the right tip, the right hand guides it and adds power. When you deliver what would be a forehand strike with a single stick, like say a type five attack with the right hand, the other (right end, in our example)end swings down and comes up on the other side of your body, while the other hand(left) makes a backhand motion. It sound complicated, but try it, and you'll see that it's like doing figure eight moulinets, it looks fancier than it actually is.

Practice doing these strikes, every day, for the next couple of weeks. Then proceed to the double surface combo drills as outlined above. I recommend you use a FULL staff, made of heavy oak, instead of the lightweight competition bos. Not only will it accustom you to using heavier objects such as metal poles as improvised staves in a pinch, but if you are into competitions, then using a heavy staff will make those flimsy little sticks fly in your hands like magic.

Next time I post, it'll be on so called "special moves," a la streetfighter(only more realistic), that can be applied to real weapons in real life situations(as opposed to swinging a wooden sword and cutting down a skyscraper on the other side of the street, or whatever your favorite fantasy character likes to do...), as well as defensive training.

Well, that's it for this installment. Any feedback would be much appreciated, send it to: aamiller@NOSPAMlv.rmci.net.

NOTE: Posted 8/5/2014 and backdated to 5/23/2002 to mirror my old site. As the contact email was from 2002, it may not work anymore, but take out the "NOSPAM" before emailing. At the time of mirroring, this article on the old site received at least 2,258 pageviews.

Mobility and the Snap Front Kick by Gerald Moffatt

4/11/2002 11:00:00 AM Broken Rhythm, Front Kick, Gerald Moffatt, Kicking, Rec.Martial-Arts No comments

Mobility and the Snap Front Kick by Gerald Moffatt

Date: 1999/01/10

I had real trouble posting the previous version and I'm not sure it got through - if this is a repost I apologize. Here's the whole series in one go.

****************************************************************************

Here's another of my mini-series for your delectation and edification. Feedback, questions, comments, critiques, even flames are welcome.

There is a discussion of the Thai-style application of the front and roundhouse kicks in the February issue of Black Belt magazine which, while cursory, is a lot better than most of BB's articles. The article discusses using the lead-leg front kick either to maintain distance or to unbalance, disrupt, and set up the opponent for the powerful Thai roundhouse kick. The article also mentions the occasional use of the rear-leg front kick as a power kick. The Thai form of the lead-leg front kick is usually delivered as a thrust or even just a push - kinda, sorta a leg jab. This can be a very effective way to use the front kick. (As an aside, the article even mentions the cross-body bent-knee Thai roundhouse which lands the shin very roughly horizontally across the opponent's thigh. Great move!) The BB article and the thread on Thai kicks and its digression into oblique kicks made me want to bring up a slightly-unusual application of the good old-fashioned front kick that I think would be more popular if it were better known.

To get started I believe that there are three (rather than two) fundamental ways to deliver a front-kick: the thrust, snap, and (the less-emphasized or well-known) rising/momentum versions. I'm going to continue to neglect the thrust and rising/momentum versions (although I think they are effective) to talk about a particular way to use the snap front kick, mostly from the front leg. This kick is definitely not a finisher, even when repeatedly landed - it is a supplementary technique that must be integrated into a more extensive repertoire of hand, leg and other techniques. But it is a quite effective way to use the lead-leg front kick, especially for light- or middle-weight fighters (or any others who rely heavily on mobility as a fighting strategy). It really frustrates, wears down, breaks the rhythm of, and opens up other fighters.

Enough teasing, here's the core idea: the snap front kick is delivered low with no pause or setup, (potentially) on each and every step, and while constantly moving forward, backward, circling, or sideways (usually off the line), and without breaking off from the opponent. If you fully grasp the implications of using the front kick this way, then you can work out the details for yourself without reading further. Or you can endure the tedium while I expound on and develop the concept.

Before getting into how to apply it, let's look at a few subtleties (well, I think they're subtle) regarding how to do it. The first point is that this kick is delivered below-the-belt targeting belly, balls, thigh, knee, or shin. A second key point is that for the sake of fluidity, rapidity, and mobility there is no chambering - the kick starts from wherever the foot happens to be and the foot travls directly to its target. Yeah, I know there's a downside to this - life's full of tradeoffs. Another fluidity tradeoff is that upper body movement/contortions should be minimal, to avoid both telegraphing and over-commitment. Here's a tricky, but quite important, point: the kick is usually delivered not from an *unweighted* foot but from an *unweighting* foot; the delivery of the kick is coincident with weight transfer done for mobility reasons.

I'm going to give some exercises to develop this type of mobile snap kick starting with a childishly-simple preliminary exercise. (I presume you already know how to do a generic snap front kick.) Stand facing a full-length mirror with your feet together. Snap kick with alternate legs. Return to the original position between kicks. (For now I don't care whether you chamber or not.) Make sure you can't tell whether you are kicking or not by looking at your reflection from the waist up; I don't care how low your kick must be or how much power you must sacrifice to accomplish this. Paradoxically, in many of the exercises that follow, you should almost think in terms of how to make your snap kick weaker rather than stronger; it will help develop the other attributes of the overall technique. Later we'll look at ways to get some power back into the move, but even then it will still remain a sting technique, not a finisher. The value of using the snap kick in the way I'm in the process of describing is (mostly) not from the kick itself but from its synergy with mobility and other blows.

For the next exercise start spread your feet sideways about shoulder-width apart (a bit like an "at-ease" stance). Alternately snap kick with each leg (initially at a slow to moderate tempo) and set each foot back to the original position. Don't chamber (in the sense of bringing the kicking foot over toward the knee of the stationary leg before going forward), not even if you feel as awkward as a duck. And again I don't care how low or weak the kicks have to be. Try also to minimize rocking and tilting of the upper body. Once you get this down try speeding up the tempo (but continue to pay close attention to minimizing upper body tilting, etc.) As you speed up you will start to get the feel of kicking as the kicking foot unweights. And you may notice that the alternation of the weighting also "pre-loads" the supporting foot for the next kick - this is the dynamic part.

Now we're going to add a few additional components to the exercise (there is nothing sacred about the order in which I present them - feel free to combine them in any way that works for you. This next bit is to enhance your feel for the technique - it is not quite how it is used in a fight. Experiment with almost (don't get exaggerated about it) hopping from one foot to the other, still landing the feet in the original positions. As you do, try different amounts of bending at the knee of the leg you land on and then push-off/thrust-up from that leg as you transfer weight to the other leg and kick with the unweighting leg. The thrusting up doesn't stop when you have unweighted the leg - the leg continues to rise and becomes the snap kick all in one continuous motion. You begin to see why we don't chamber the kick. I'll come back in a while to discuss how the thrusting up increases the speed and power of the snap kick (and another way of doing it that's even faster).

Building on the previous exercise which started with your feet spread sideways shoulder-width apart, let's introduce another element. Instead of stepping/hopping from foot to foot as we deliver snap kicks replacing each foot in its original position, this time try for distance, lateral displacement, as you push off each time. The feet no longer land in the original position. Do the move purely sideways at first but eventually add a slight twist/reorientation to face your imaginary stationary opponent. With lateral displacement don't waste energy and telegraph your kicks by bobbing your centre of gravity up and down. The rule of "quiet upper body" still applies. Don't emphasize the leg that steps out - instead still focus on the push-off that will add power to the snap kick. While the kicking foot must come over a little laterally, still don't chamber it.

Next level of the exercise: This time instead of moving your foot purely sideways each time, try sideways and backwards at roughly a 45-degree angle. Experiment with the step, hop, and distance versions (and vary the angle). The 45-degree backwards version is the one most used defensively in sparring or real combat.

Next - this one is tough - try going purely backwards. I'm anticipating a bit here but have a partner help you with this one by coming forward at you (have him adjust his intensity so he doesn't overwhelm you while you're learning). The reason for the partner is that your objective is to maintain (or at least control) the distance between you and the opponent without getting run over or backing off too fast/far and losing contact. The pure backwards version is by far the toughest way to practice this - but if you get it right (and your opponent is not too fast) you should be able to neatly tap him in the belly/balls on each step for two or three moves. (If he's fast you should still land one, maybe two.) The reason you want to maintain distance is that you are not depending on the kick to seriously hurt him but to disrupt his attack and permit you to counterattack at any point. The break in your opponent's rhythm caused by your kick is only momentary - you will only be able to exploit it if you can react immediately, not if you must "re-engage" him. (In the exercise you are not yet counterattacking, but you are training yourself in distance management while highly mobile.) Depending on how much pressure your opponent puts on you, you'll probably spontaneously do the second or third step 45-degrees backwards/sideways rather than straight back.

Now try it stepping forward/sideways at a 45-degree angle. Strictly speaking each snap kick will now be a rear-leg rather than lead-leg one, but don't overpower it. The kicks should still be more flick than power. (Later we'll do it the power way, but for now the emphasis is on fluidity and mobility.) Keep working on various amounts of step, hop, distance, slide, etc. And still emphasize the push-off leg. The push-off and the kick with that same foot should be one seamless integrated move with no hesitation or discontinuity.

Now I suppose, for completeness' sake, you could also do the exercise moving straight forward. I haven't found this variant to be particularly useful. It's hard to push back a powerful (but less mobile) opponent with just flick kicks and you would soon bump into him if he didn't give ground. (Remember, we're the ones favoring mobility.) You will find that the kicks become power shots, which is OK, but isn't the mobility strategy we're working on. (The temptation to use power is particularly strong since the kicks are delivered with the rear leg.)

The next level is fairly obvious - try doing the moves in combinations and sequences, either alone or with a partner. (It all reminds me a bit of a Scots lass doing a sword dance.) From here it starts to get a little hard to describe the nuances, so I'll duck that problem for now while I figure out how to approach it and instead talk about a different aspect.

I've talked a bit about how to deliver the snap front kick, but now I want to say something about how to land it and how to step down. There are three main ways to land the snap front kick: ball of the foot (toes curled back), instep/shin and toe-point. Toepoint is risky in the dojo unless you have "toes of steel" but with shoes that aren't outrageously flimsy, the risk is small and the concentration of force on the target is high. BTW, "toes of steel" can be trained, although it doesn't seem very worthwhile if you mostly wear shoes. Also BTW, the instep can be quite vulnerable to damage even if partially protected by a shoe, although the risk is not so high as to disqualify its use. The ball of the foot is fairly safe and versatile, although you can "snag" or bend back a toe in the dojo and street use can sometimes be limited by the flexibility of your footwear.

The way you prefer to land the snap front kick can affect whether you want to use one other good method of initiating the kick. I've already talked about using a bent leg to push-off the (more-or-less flat) foot both for mobility and to launch the kick. The other method uses the calf muscles to push off and speed the kick. Instead of just pushing off flat-footed, push off with the ball of the foot. The heel leaves the ground first. Any cyclist knows that he would throw away considerable power if he didn't use ankle flexion and extension, so we should use it too. This propulsion method tends to favour the instep or toe-point methods of landing the kick, but I have known those who can use the method with the ball-of-foot striking surface. If you like this propulsive method you can augment it by landing on the ball of your foot and then (almost) setting the heel down before springing into the pushoff/kick. This engages the "stretch reflex" of the calf muscles and really adds speed and power to the kick. The main point is: don't use just your hip flexors (psoas, etc.) to lift the leg in preparation for the snap kick, explosively propel it off the floor by pushing down with the ball-of-foot (calf muscles) and/or extending the leg and "unflexing" the knee (quads, etc.). But, remember, if you do this, you mustn't squander the speed and energy by stalling or hesitating, however briefly, in chamber.

Now for the second half of the kick, the part after it lands. Some people favor actively retracting or snapping back the kick. I don't, at least not the way we're using it for mobility. There's no chamber on the way out and none on the way back. I don't like even a hint of slowness (in mobility, not the kick) from having "retracting" muscles contracted. It's part of the reason I emphasize using less rather than more power when learning. Let the kick hit and recoil/bounce-off passively while the "snap" muscles relax (actually just lose their acute tension). Then (it's continuous, without lag or hesitation) put the foot down wherever you wish it to carry you (it's not just a kick, it's also a step). The "retracting" muscles never get used or tensed, muscles are only used (lightly) to guide the foot to its landing zone on the ground. You should feel very relaxed and loose the whole time you are moving around - the kicks are just little blips or pulses in the smooth flow. Don't sacrifice fluidity to "get set" and deliver more power (you'll only violate this rule when you "shift gears" to seriously counter).

But what good are these flicky kicks? Not much, except they work. Imagine you could land a jab at will to your opponent's face - go even further and imagine it's only a slap but you can always land it. The opponent, in principle, should ignore it and walk right through it. And maybe he would, the second or third time he fights you. But right now he's distracted - the slap is nothing but what if the next one were a bilgee? Or what if the next one were a power punch? This kick is the same kind of thing to his belly or balls. It's hard for him to assess it - he just knows he's open and getting hit and that it's breaking up his attacks on you. If it was the only thing you had you'd be dead meat - but it isn't (at least, I sure hope it isn't). And even though I'm discounting its intensity, in reality, with practice, it hits hard enough that, although not usually a stopper, it sure can't be ignored. The opponent is even more aware than you are that if you "set" and deliver it hard he could take serious damage. And for you, it's great to have an uncertain, hesitant, and frustrated opponent.

Now the mobility and range parts come into it. I'm not going to try to discuss all the mobility aspects, just give some examples so you get the flavour.

I imagine your opponent to be powerful, fairly skilled, but less quick (particularly in footwork) than you. You would be reluctant to fight him in direct opposition (either because of his skill or power) and you will try to fight on the angles. Against such an opponent the main mobility variants will be the sideways and 45-degree sideways/backwards movements. You want to make your lateral moves so he must turn to face you (to bring his centreline to bear). And you want to move again, not once he has lined you up, (and certainly not after) but just as he is lining you up. At the simplest level you can "windshield-wiper" him by repeatedly crossing his centreline to the opposite side. And of course there are those little kicks on each move. (Even some WCers who are used to opponents trying to fight them from the outside lines and who are ready to realign their centrelines, are often not prepared to have to realign so frequently.) Now if you do it this simplistically for too long the opponent will read and time you, so mix up the direction changes, repeats, etc. You will also (unless you are fighting an incompetent) generally have to use your hands to help your disengagements to the outside. The possible hand moves (defensive and offensive) get so complicated, I'm not even going to try to describe them, but they are exceedingly important nonetheless. The problem you want to create for the opponent is never knowing whether to set and pound you or get ready for another movement. Even though the opponent is the aggressor and chasing you, you are in control, because with respect to mobility, you are the actor/initiator and he is the re-actor.

You are avoiding the opponent (while pecking him with those little kicks) but you are not breaking off. As long as you are emphasizing your mobility (you'll counter later) you don't want to break off or disengage but to always be tantalizingly at slightly the wrong angle or just out-of-reach (or, even better, a little closer, just at the limit of his power). And we're talking his hand power - he can't deliver a kick worth anything unless he sets. If you can lure him into overextending or leaning even slightly your little kicks will really start to hurt.

I talked about moving side-to-side and angling backwards (and there is always pure retreat backwards). Forward angling can have two purposes: getting "past" him so it takes a large-angle turn for him to realign his centreline (feel free to punch him once or twice while he's doing this - the "light" counter), or delivering the power kick/knee (or maybe big punch) surprise heavy counter. This is the safest position from which to deliver your big counterattack. But you can also counter on the other angles by uncharacteristically and unpredictably "setting" and delivering a combination (hand and/or foot) - don't stay too long or stop to admire your work - and immediately resume the mobility game. You must set, deliver your combo, and then move off just as he's bringing his heavy guns to bear. Easy to describe, but it takes a lot of experience not to tarry too long.

Up to now I've talked as if you snap kick on every move and that's exactly the way you should do it in solo and partner practice and in sparring the first few hundred times. I joke, but the point is that only when you feel you could kick on every move (even if pressed by a formidable opponent) should you permit yourself sometimes not to. It's not just for the sake of always being able to kick - you will have trained yourself in lightness of foot and mobility. You will never feel as though you are trapped (even briefly) with your weight on the wrong leg pinning you to the floor, while some heavy-hitter unloads on you.

To close this series out I'm going to touch on a pot-pourri of topics.

The first is broken rhythm. At the simplest level this consists in making each step-and-kick in a varying tempo, such as 1…2…3…4,5…6…7,8…9 etc. Now here's the tricky part, even for such a simple scheme. Since the opponent is generally attacking while you are moving, the opponent may set the basic timing rather than you. But even if he sets the rhythm you can break it by occasionally doing a double beat, beat-and-a-half, etc. If you're even slicker, you can attempt to take over the primary rhythm - since the opponent is the aggressor this takes considerable finesse. It's sort of like leading when dancing.

The other way you can break the rhythm as well as punish him is by occasionally setting and delivering a power combination. In terms of footwork rhythm this is nearly equivalent to a musical full stop (even if it involves a kick or two).

Now I'm going to ignore hand combinations and hand/foot combinations to talk just about the more limited (but hopefully more manageable) topic of integrating power kicks into the process. When using the lead-leg snap front kick for mobility the rear leg is generally available as a power followup instead of just continuing with flick kicks. The threat of a power kick followup to the flicky snap kicks is one consideration that prevents the opponent from throwing caution to the winds when turning to face us or chase us. And while the power kick can be a front kick (snap, thrust, or momentum) it doesn't have to be - for instance, a Thai round kick also works well. The 1-2 foot combination is analogous to a hand combo of jab/straight or jab/cross.

But there can be some problems with distance management when integrating power front kicks from the rear leg - if you have maintained contact during your maneuvers, you may be just a little too close. I find that power knees are often the better choice. However, the distance may still be too far for a rising knee. The knee strikes that seem to work best are the forward-thrusting knee and the roundhouse knee. These are especially good choices when you do a forward-sideways step as a counterattack rather than for pure mobility. (And usually don't stop with a singleton knee kick - if you land a hard one go to plum position and give him a few more. Maybe throw in a few elbows for good measure. Then - if he isn't finished - push out, but don't lose contact, and resume the mobility game.)

I want to talk about one footwork move that integrates beautifully into the snap-kick mobility strategy (although it also has many other applications): the scissors lead-leg change. The basic mechanics of the scissors step are simple - from, say, a front stance, change leads by simultaneously moving each leg, landing in a front stance with opposite lead. On completion you have moved neither forward or backward. Try to be light and smooth, and just skim above the floor, without too much up-and-down bobbing of the upper body when you unweight. This move has a lot of uses, such as, changing leads for mobility (e.g., to circle in the opposite direction), retracting the lead leg from a roundhouse kick (or a shoot), or setting up an "instant-return" power kick (front, round, or knee) from the rear (former lead) leg. (And there are even some good wrestling moves based on it.) There are any number of other footwork moves that also work well with mobility, but I don't want to digress into a general discussion of footwork and kick setups.

We'll end with one modification of the lead-leg snap front kick for use at closer than ideal range. To deliver a snap front kick close, really curl your whole back (curl - don't lean back and don't bend forward either) and tilt your pelvis up while bringing your knee high and close to your chest (actually it's not this exaggerated - I'm giving a training description). It feels almost as if you were trying to curl your pubis up to your chin, rather than your chin forward or down. The lift of the knee is not so much to target the kick high on the opponent but to fold the knee a bit more tightly when the opponent is just a little closer than optimum (if he's definitely too close, you're asking to be jammed or dumped on your ass by trying this.) Because of the curl of your back your hands can continue to engage the opponent's and there is not that much telegraphing. (Some telegraphing is unavoidable, but it's way less than if you lean forward or back. Distracting the opponent by keeping his hands busy definitely helps). My personal "feel" for the right range is about when my and my opponent's slightly-bent lead arm would just cross. No chambering and don't hesitate or "pose" with your knee high - the foot accelerates directly from floor to target. Try kicking a wall, progressively inching closer each time, in order to initially "tune" the technique in terms of distance, height (and power) - afterwards refine it with a partner.

Some day I'll describe how to (try to) thwart the snap-front-kick mobility strategy, but for now I'm done.

Regards,
Gerald Moffatt

NOTES:

Posted to Usenet's newsgroup rec.martial-arts. Archived with kind permission.
Posted 10/16/13 as of 4/11/02 mirroring http://stickgrappler.tripod.com/rma/gmkick.html
There were 1,980 pageviews of this entry on my old archives site

Please check out 2 other articles by Gerald Moffatt:

Wednesday, June 28, 2006

Who am I? (or WTF is a 'Stickgrappler'?)

Thursday, December 05, 2002

The Jabbing File thread started by Rastus

De La Hoya vs Vargas: The Jab thread started by Rastus

Terminology and Stance thread started by lefthooker

The Definitive Jab thread started by lefthooker

Thursday, May 23, 2002

Archone's Updated Weapons Drills

Thursday, April 11, 2002

Mobility and the Snap Front Kick by Gerald Moffatt

Mobility and the Snap Front Kick by Gerald Moffatt

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Wednesday, June 28, 2006

Who am I? (or WTF is a 'Stickgrappler'?)

Thursday, December 05, 2002

The Jabbing File thread started by Rastus

De La Hoya vs Vargas: The Jab thread started by Rastus

Terminology and Stance thread started by lefthooker

The Definitive Jab thread started by lefthooker

Thursday, May 23, 2002

Archone's Updated Weapons Drills

Thursday, April 11, 2002

Mobility and the Snap Front Kick by Gerald Moffatt

Mobility and the Snap Front Kick by Gerald Moffatt

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